| Radon Facts You Should Know |
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| Radon Pathways Into The Home | Home |
EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher, and that you should consider taking action if the radon level is above 2 pCi/L.
EPA: "The average house costs about $1,200 for a contractor to fix, although this can range from about $800 to about $2,500, depending on the characteristics of the house and the method used."
Beside the initial costs, there are other issues to consider when evaluating the different radon mitigation methods:
EPA: "Systems that use fans are more effective in reducing radon levels; however, they will increase your electric bill. Remember, the fan should never be turned off; it must run continuously for the system to work correctly. A warning device must be installed to alert you if the system stops working properly."
(Source: "The Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction" by EPA)
Covering exposed earth in basement reduces ingress of radon, as does sealing cracks and openings in ground level walls and floors.
Drain-tiles can be placed surrounding the foundation and vented away from the house (the drain-tile suction method). This method is designed to pull radon from the soil surrounding the house and vent it away from the house.
Sub-slab suction is more difficult to accomplish, as it involves placing pipes under the house (laterally through side walls or by drilling holes in the concrete slab). A fan is used to vent these pipes away from the house.
Concrete block walls can be vented by sucking air from the hollow spaces in the wall and venting it away from the house to prevent radon from re-entering.
Lastly, there are methods for decreasing negative pressures within the house by bringing air into the house in proportion to losses from chimneys, dryers, etc., or by positive pressure including basement pressurization by blowing air from upper floors into the sealed basement.
| Conventional Techniques: A Comparison of Features | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Method | Typical Radon Reduction | Typical range of installation costs (contractor) |
Typical operating cost range for fan electricity and heating/cooled air loss (annual) | Comments |
| Sub-slab suction (sub-slab depressurization) | 80%-99% | $800-2,500 | $75-175 | Works best if air can move easily through the soil under the slab. |
| Drain-tile suction | 90%-99% | $800-1,700 | $75-175 | Works best if drain tiles form a complete loop around the house. |
| Block-wall suction | 50%-99% | $1,500-3,000 | $150-300 | Only in houses with hollow block walls, requires sealing of openings. |
| Sump hole suction | 90%-99% | $800-2,500 | $100-225 | Works best if air can move easily to sump under slab or if drain tiles form complete loop. |
| Sealing of radon entry routes | 0%-50% | $100-2,000 | none | Normally used in combination with other techniques. |
| House (basement) pressurization | 50%-99% | $500-1,500 | $150-500 | Works best with tight basements that can be isolated from outdoors and upper floors. |
| Natural ventilation | Variable | $200-500 if additional vents are installed; $0 with no additional vents |
$100-700 | Significant heat and conditioned air loss; operating costs depend on utility rates and the ventilation. |
| Heat recovery ventilation | 25%-50% if used for full house; 25%-75% if used for basement | $1,200-2,500 | $75-500 for continuous operation | Limited use; works best in a tight house and when used for basement; less conditioned air loss than natural ventilation. |
| Radon Facts You Should Know |
|
| Radon Pathways Into The Home | Home |